有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 13:01

我和菜籽油的前世今生

<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=20240712"><!--    付费贴-->    <div class="preview_article ">            <!---->    <p>国庆假期,前同事从江南回烟台探亲,特意请他帮我带回三桶油菜籽油。</p><p class="empty_paragraph">&nbsp;</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004125457front2_0_182717_FiaojIUxWaeJfbYIonM7hyQA4sX8.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="1152" height="864" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004125457front2_0_182717_FiaojIUxWaeJfbYIonM7hyQA4sX8.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>每到春天,油菜花开的时节,也是江南最美的时候。而以油菜花为主题的旅游景点,包括江西婺源,芜湖响水涧,歙县石潭村,早在油菜花还是含苞待放之时,游客就已经摩肩接踵人山人海了。</p><p class="empty_paragraph">&nbsp;</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004125800front2_0_182717_FpSFIGPK3xN_Rzvu4sekTIC2Ltit.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="1008" height="756" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004125800front2_0_182717_FpSFIGPK3xN_Rzvu4sekTIC2Ltit.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>油菜花谢后,花蕾长成了籽荚。起初,有点像北方的绿豆荚。只是油菜可以长到一人多高,枝桠上挂着满满当当的菜籽荚。</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>江南的农人,极善于利用土地。经常能在路边看到,哪怕只有一平方米大小的地方,也会被利用起来。撒点种子,就可以收割好几株结荚的成熟油菜。</p><p class="empty_paragraph">&nbsp;</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004125817front2_0_182717_Fp5jYmkoJPnZ1h97HeaEjK65H2bF.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="1008" height="756" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004125817front2_0_182717_Fp5jYmkoJPnZ1h97HeaEjK65H2bF.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>油菜小的时候,需要人工清理,除掉长势密集的部分油菜,当地人称之为菜头。新鲜的菜头,极易于烹饪,清洗干净后,切成寸段。菜籽油下锅,油热后,加入蒜片爆香,然后倒入切好的菜头,加适量食盐,大火翻炒几下即可出锅。无需加味精鸡精蚝油之类的调味品,自得鲜香馥郁。</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>只是,用油菜籽油,炒油菜菜头,貌似有点煮豆燃豆萁的纠结。正所谓原汤化原食,这道菜,也是我最喜欢的一道江南时令家常菜。</p><p class="empty_paragraph">&nbsp;</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004125849front2_0_182717_Fve8SNGi7e19-p9ALWFKtYj-vYg2.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="1008" height="756" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004125849front2_0_182717_Fve8SNGi7e19-p9ALWFKtYj-vYg2.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>初到江南的古镇时,无论是建筑房屋,还是空气里,都弥漫着一股说不出来的气味。直到我到江南工作后,某天下班回家,推开厨房门,这个困扰我好多年的疑问终于有了答案,就是用菜籽油做菜后,累积下来的味道。</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>起初,我做菜时,用的是超市买来的桶装菜籽油。做出来的菜,真的是难以下咽。当地的同事告诉我,公司附近有一家油坊,他家榨的菜籽油,很靠谱。</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>抱着试试看的心态,买了一桶回来。第一次用新榨的菜籽油做菜,我做的是竹笋炒肉。印象很深刻,当即怀疑,我以前吃过的菜籽油,都是假的。</p><p class="empty_paragraph">&nbsp;</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004125925front2_0_182717_FuF_B2dC3K0uzNl4ZiWAuhx3LCKG.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="1152" height="864" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004125925front2_0_182717_FuF_B2dC3K0uzNl4ZiWAuhx3LCKG.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph">&nbsp;</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004125925front2_0_182717_Fhv0UDyj3IO90dfbCTWz8obZhejs.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="1152" height="864" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004125925front2_0_182717_Fhv0UDyj3IO90dfbCTWz8obZhejs.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph">&nbsp;</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004130020front2_0_182717_FkaJiBeIkCRmx0ZMaq83JEITBnhd.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="1152" height="864" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004130020front2_0_182717_FkaJiBeIkCRmx0ZMaq83JEITBnhd.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>也就是从那天开始,江南油坊里的菜籽油,成了我个人厨房里的首选。从2019年春天到现在,包括离开江南回到烟台的这两年,我都极少吃花生油了。</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>除了炒菜头和竹笋,用菜籽油煎的鸡蛋,色泽金黄,色味具佳。用菜籽油炸的蘑菇,鱼,不但品相一流,口味也比花生油要好吃很多。</p><p class="empty_paragraph">&nbsp;</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004125940front2_0_182717_FgkkFGH4Hv_NiNtoSDIugIFywAWH.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="756" height="1008" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004125940front2_0_182717_FgkkFGH4Hv_NiNtoSDIugIFywAWH.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>前年年底,我在上海工作的时候,得知即将告别江南不再回返的消息后,我骑着自行车,从上海到苏州昆山乡下的一家油坊,买了三十斤新榨的菜籽油,带回到烟台。</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>我毫不怀疑,我的前生,一定生活在江南甪直古镇上的农人。对于菜籽油的喜欢,大概也是源于我前世今生密码的开启。就像莫名其妙地爱上一个人后,脑子里整天都想着,如何迫不及待地为她奋不顾身。哪怕是飞蛾投火,也义无反顾,心甘情愿。</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>我对菜籽油的依赖,也是这样的缘起吧。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.ytbbs.com/forum/20241004130047front2_0_182717_Ft4LR5NH7nncWIZQMxZ7vk5VCSb1.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" alt="" width="1008" height="756" data-qf-origin="forum/20241004130047front2_0_182717_Ft4LR5NH7nncWIZQMxZ7vk5VCSb1.jpg?watermark/3/text/QOacieawtOaXoOS4ug==/fontsize/400/dissolve/80/gravity/South/fill/IzM2MzYzYQ==/font/5b6u6L2v6ZuF6buR/dx/68/dy/16/image/aHR0cDovL3BpYy5hcHAueXRiYnMuY29tL3dhdGVyX2ltZ18yMDE4MTEyNl80NTEuanBn/dissolve/80/gravity/South/dx/-34/dy/10" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>    <!----></div>            

雪吟居士 发表于 2024-10-4 13:42

换着吃过,超市买的,吃不惯

火红年代 发表于 2024-10-4 13:53

这个油烟台人还是不认。饭店里都是用调合油,花生油、豆油、玉米油合在一起的,叫调合油。南方人认菜籽油。

努力到感动自己 发表于 2024-10-4 14:16

有股怪怪的味道,我小时候还吃过棉籽油

0503066635 发表于 2024-10-4 15:44

舌尖上的中国见过古法压榨
菜籽油,虽然从来没吃过,但感觉应该很健康。

hudiegu 发表于 2024-10-4 15:55

怪事,不明白为什么烟台不愿吃菜籽油,做菜很好吃的。菜籽油河南陕西山西四川都有种植食用

2024年注册 发表于 2024-10-4 15:59

喜欢花生油

行云何处去 发表于 2024-10-4 17:30

为了几桶菜籽油,从上海骑自行车到苏州。。。嗯,像你的风格

余笙 发表于 2024-10-4 19:08

好久不见,甚是想念啊大哥

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:10

余笙 发表于 2024-10-4 19:08
好久不见,甚是想念啊大哥

山中方七日,世上已千年。余老师,别来无恙

玉佩 发表于 2024-10-4 19:12

余笙 发表于 2024-10-4 19:15

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:10
山中方七日,世上已千年。余老师,别来无恙

你去山上修行了大哥?我说怎么都不见你影

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:19

余笙 发表于 2024-10-4 19:15
你去山上修行了大哥?我说怎么都不见你影

是啊,闭关了,原以为能增进功力,却不想太高估自己了,大败而归

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:21

行云何处去 发表于 2024-10-4 17:30
为了几桶菜籽油,从上海骑自行车到苏州。。。嗯,像你的风格

上海和苏州,只是一河之隔。我上班的地方,距离苏州昆山的花桥镇,不到三公里只是,乡下的油坊能远一点,三四十公里的距离?大概是。来回一上午的时间

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:22

雪吟居士 发表于 2024-10-4 13:42
换着吃过,超市买的,吃不惯

确实,超市买的菜籽油,淡出个鸟来没法吃,根本没法吃

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:24

火红年代 发表于 2024-10-4 13:53
这个油烟台人还是不认。饭店里都是用调合油,花生油、豆油、玉米油合在一起的,叫调合油。南方人认菜籽油。

很多年前,我也喜欢买调和油,直到后来看到,很多调和油里都有棕榈油,这才作罢如果是单纯的花生油玉米油大豆油的混合,味道肯定不会差的

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:24

努力到感动自己 发表于 2024-10-4 14:16
有股怪怪的味道,我小时候还吃过棉籽油

对对,好多年都没有听说棉籽油了

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:25

0503066635 发表于 2024-10-4 15:44
舌尖上的中国见过古法压榨
菜籽油,虽然从来没吃过,但感觉应该很健康。

我也记得那个桥段拍得很阳刚,很唯美。只是,那种榨油方式,很少有了。

有水无为 发表于 2024-10-4 19:27

hudiegu 发表于 2024-10-4 15:55
怪事,不明白为什么烟台不愿吃菜籽油,做菜很好吃的。菜籽油河南陕西山西四川都有种植食用

胶东半岛本来就是全国花生油产量最大的区域。一方水土养一方人,本地丰富的物产,排斥外来,也很正常

悠悠见南山 发表于 2024-10-4 19:48

出差江南,饭点的时间走在小巷子里空气都弥漫着菜籽油的味道,感觉还是不太习惯。
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